"In the early times the art of surfing had a profound religious signifcance; it was called Ka Nalu, a study of the wave. From a lifetime in and around the ocean, a surf rider learned some of the immutble laws of nature. From the many hundreds of hours spent off shore on her surfboard, she became aware of a constant pattern that prevails in the forming and breaking action of the waves. Thus, she came to recognize the great harmony and rhythm that permeates all things. She aquired the patience to wait for things to happen rather than to try to make them happen. With each successful ride, she experienced a feeling of spiritual achievement; she came into harmony with nature; and nature, for all practical purposes, is God."
- Tom Blake
I like this because it connects surfing to God, which I have always felt is my religion. I changed the he's to she's in this quote =).
1 comment:
Wow, Carlen, thank you so much for sharing this quote! I love it! It was so nice to see you today. Grandma really lied you both. She said, "Oh, you have wonderful friends!" I said to her, "Yes, I do, don't I?" Hope you had a nice flight back home. See you soon.
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